2010年10月10日 星期日

Mid-Autumn in Danshui

[Eyedoc's childhood home on Chung Cheng Road]

Such a well-written article by Patrick Cowsill, it must be shared by all:

"Mid-Autumn in the Midst of Danshui"
http://www.culture.tw/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=1903&Itemid=156

For those of us who grew up in Danshui in the 50s, some observations:

(1) BBQs were not associated with Mid-Autumn festivals, the culinary link has always been with the moon cakes which commemorated the Chinese popular uprising against their Mongolian rulers in the night of Mid-Autumn, ca 1368. Legend has it that secret messages were hidden in the cakes to alert everyone of the planned revolt.

(2) The original hibachis火鉢 ["fire-pots" - in which charcoals are placed] were used as hand warmers and space heaters in the winter time, and on which, we roasted dried cuttlefish or 年糕 for snacks. [Left: a 大正時代 porcelain hibachi.]

(3) Fish-balls were spherical, not ellipsoidal as they now appear. They were/are the most delicious human creation. The most popular fish-ball soup shop was located at the fish market directly in front of Ma-Zu temple. The novice tend to bite on the piping hot fish-ball thereby burning their mouths. The proper way is to cut the fish balls into halves or quarters with your soup spoon and eat them with the soup. Eyedoc's aunt's family still makes the best fish-balls in Danshui, available at a small workshop across from 龍山寺, in the wet market.

(4) Fort San Domingo was occupied by the Brits who flew an over-sized Union Jack over it; and directly across Chung Cheng Road, at the riverbank, secret construction of mini-submarines [below] by the ROC Navy went on, right under the nose of the British Consulate.

(5) Before the Taipei Metro, there were also tourists although who headed for Danshui Golf Course directly never set foot in our little town. We liked it that way.

2 則留言:

  1. LOL, I'll have to give fish balls another chance. I think they might taste better with hot sauce, but less hot the other way.

    There's an interesting argument unfolding here: on the one side, we have individuals in or from Danshui who are understandably worried that the tourist hordes are diminishing the quaintness of this community. On the other, there are the shop owners, street artists, arcade operators and restauranteurs who who employ many and absolutely rely on tourists to remain in business.

    I get you and Chosan's point, but I still think promoting tourism in Taiwan is good, if not essential. You're a doctor and Chosan is, I think, an engineer. You might be more sympathetic if you had different lines of work (I mean that with respect). In truth I wish the government was more competent about the promotion of tourism; that's probably the point of another blog post or article.

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  2. Not sure where you had the fish balls last time. They are quite flavorful by themselves. Even better with the soup - that is the secret. With the hot sauce? You may invite some snickering behind your back. It is simply not done.

    We are simply missing a childhood lost. I personally will not be in the way of tourism/prosperity. In its heyday, Danshui was an international seaport. Just as hustle and bustle as it is now.

    I was so happy to see two Caucasian pupils (one a mixed blood) in the elementary school where we did some eye screening last week. That reminds me of my elementary school classmate Ke, George Leslie Mackay's great grandson. Nothing much has changed - Danshui still remains cosmopolitan in a way. And when the tourists all went home by night, it is still our own little old Danshui.

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