Some sharp-eyed reporter from Japan recently noted tilting of the top front portion of the temple towards the Chung Cheng Road side. If you look at the picture below carefully, you'll notice a slight vertical misalignment of the stone pillar [hexagonal in cross-section] when contrasted with the front facade/wall:
This can be an optical illusion but not really - measurements have confirmed this micro-scale leaning tower of Pisa.What has happened? If you look at the area (see map here): To the immediate right of the temple, a narrow alley leads uphill to 重建街. It branches off to the right to 清水祖師廟. And off the left of 重建Street, there is the 紅樓 (the Red Castle), a western-style structure built in 1899 (see painting below). It was this distinctive-looking building that might have been mistaken for a military post and attacked on Oct 12, 1944 by the American F6Fs. In fact, this area, i.e., the backside of Ma-Zu Temple, appeared to have been strafed by machine guns and either rocketed or even bombed. No one knows for sure as most residents had evacuated to the countryside north of Danshui. This, most likely an accidental hit, could have shaken the foundation of the temple and the damage, exacerbated by earthquakes, is just now becoming apparent.
[The Danshui Red Castle is seen on the upper right in this 1935 painting by 陳澄波 (1895-1947). In the foreground is 重建街.]You'd think the locals would sprint into action and repair the walls promptly. No, not at all. In fact, "not so fast" as a permission must first be granted by Ma-Zu herself. This seemingly supernatural yet a real requisite as far as the locals are concerned can come in many forms. There has been none so far. The locals know from years of experience that it is unwise to act unilaterally from the human end or risk inviting misfortunes - just ask the few hapless merchants who had rented properties from the temple in the past and neglected to seek Ma-Zu's approval for one deed or another.
No one dares to question why the omnipotent sea-goddess Ma-Zu allows this to happen to her own house. Let's just say common folks will never really understand her mysterious ways.
Here is a thought: Next time when you visit Danshui, take a close look at the front walls of Ma-Zu Temple. Then go inside and visit with Ma-Zu. Who knows, you maybe the next messenger to tell Danshui-ren, "the reconstruction shall now begin".
'It was this distinctive-looking building that might have been mistaken for a military post and attacked on Oct 12, 1944 by the American F6Fs.'
回覆刪除Or did they bomb it on purpose, like they did Longshan Temple? The Japanese were supposedly keeping armaments in the latter location.
Great painting by Mr. Chen.
Intentional bombing was unlikely, the house was/is a privately owned property - in the same style as the British Consulate building. To transport armaments there, you'd have to negotiate a steep slope then a very narrow road. There were other better hiding places.
回覆刪除A while back, ChoSan mentioned a wayward (unexploded) bomb hitting near the back of MaZu Temple (and his house also in the same area had bullet holes from the F6F attacks). He may still be right about the bomb. We are looking into it more now.
It was October 13, 1944 the second day of full scale air raid by US Navy. A big bomb has dropped into backyard of Ma-Zu temple, thanks to the Ma-Zu, but unexplored. The unexplored bomb has kicked up debris into the air and broke neighbor’s roof few houses away. The story above was told by my mother-in-law who has eye witnessed the incident. She was living next door to the public market in front of the temple.
回覆刪除ChoSan
Hi ChoSan, so there really was a bomb. And indeed it had to have landed in the MaZu Temple backyard which abuts a steep cliff. Another MaZu miracle - for preventing the bomb from exploding. Thanks for the precious info.
回覆刪除The public market across the street is now being demolished, to be rebuilt into something grandiose. Another old landmark gone, though.